When talking HP is this what is expected at the wheels? Glad that you agree with me on the gauges :-) I had my first instance of popping off an IC hose and didn't find it enjoyable (fortunately it didn't put me in a pickle)- stock boost (same IC as yours in which case silicone hoses to stock hoses ain't real secure).
Perhaps 320hp at the rear wheels? A stage 1 tune gets about 230hp at the rear wheels (this was on a Mustang Dyno- crank HP was estimated at about 305, which would represent more than a 20% drivetrain loss).
Unfortunately, the losses are often that large, and that's what we should expect. However, my comparison with is at least apples-to-apples. My current claim of just over 300 hp is based on the 1/4 mile times and the claimed crank HP of another W211.
I'll be doing 1/4 mile runs, again, as we dial things in, or at least 0-100 runs, since the top speed would be noticeably higher, now. I should have a pretty decent estimate of how we're doing.
As of this weekend: pump, injectors, and downpipe are installed. I'm working on the new gauges. I'm still waiting for a few more small parts and I'll need that first tune from Drew to make any use of it (and I'll install the 4-bar MAP when I do that). The eBay source I used for silicone hoses turned out to be a liar, as they aren't actually in Ohio, as I wait for them a full week later.
I'm actually envious of your mechanical doings as I'm in the midst of doing body/paint work (sucks!).
I totally agree that the performance numbers will be the BIG TELL.
I'm on the fence for what power mods I want to do to my second CDI. It'll be the wife's car in which case I cannot justify going bonkers (and my car I wish to leave stock [except simple tune] as it's a very rare specimen). Was thinking that with the upgraded IC that a tune could be dialed up a bit over stock IC with a tune.
Where are you mounting the new gauges? I plan to install just an EGT in a vent pod: don't want the wife staring at additional stuff; it'll only be for my eyes when I get a chance to drive the car.
My car's mechanical setup, until now, was the Lithuanian (ETK) turbo, and a big intercooler with the swirl vanes, resonators, EGR, and cat removed. The turbo is a smaller change that people might expect and the intercooler is rather important for controlling the EGTs. I'm betting you can get into the upper 200s range with a good tune on that. Best way to know is get a Dragy and do some 1/4 mile runs. Talk to Drew, get a tune, as it's money well-spent. If you haven't flashed your TCU, get that done, too, to get firmer shifts.
Fully expect to get at least a tune from Drew. I MAY have to do something with the IC pipes/hoses. Car really isn't on the street yet: needing to get some paint work done and some other stuff. I DID get a Dragy: haven't used it yet, not even on my daily CDI. Probably do the TCU in my car (I have a spare, so no downtime) but unsure on this other car (which will be my wife's- I went through the valve body on its trans and need to verify that it's all good, in the very limited testing I've done it seems good).
New gauges are going into the same pods I used for the GlowShift. I have the pods, the new gauges were purposely chosen to be in the 2 1/16" size, I already put the holes in my dash, and I think it's the perfect location for them.
If I kept watching your videos, I’ll end up with a diesel too.
Everybody should have one! The torque and efficiency are amazing!
I once said I'd never own a diesel car. Never say "never" as that's all I'd drive now.
Awesome choices. . . except for the colors 🤪
I’ll add some orange pin-stripes to the valve covers, just for you! ;-)
you can deep throat all the sausage you want, just don't do it for me.
When talking HP is this what is expected at the wheels? Glad that you agree with me on the gauges :-) I had my first instance of popping off an IC hose and didn't find it enjoyable (fortunately it didn't put me in a pickle)- stock boost (same IC as yours in which case silicone hoses to stock hoses ain't real secure).
Sorry to say it, but this is flywheel hp we are talking about. With an automatic, there will be losses at the wheels.
Perhaps 320hp at the rear wheels? A stage 1 tune gets about 230hp at the rear wheels (this was on a Mustang Dyno- crank HP was estimated at about 305, which would represent more than a 20% drivetrain loss).
Unfortunately, the losses are often that large, and that's what we should expect. However, my comparison with is at least apples-to-apples. My current claim of just over 300 hp is based on the 1/4 mile times and the claimed crank HP of another W211.
I'll be doing 1/4 mile runs, again, as we dial things in, or at least 0-100 runs, since the top speed would be noticeably higher, now. I should have a pretty decent estimate of how we're doing.
As of this weekend: pump, injectors, and downpipe are installed. I'm working on the new gauges. I'm still waiting for a few more small parts and I'll need that first tune from Drew to make any use of it (and I'll install the 4-bar MAP when I do that). The eBay source I used for silicone hoses turned out to be a liar, as they aren't actually in Ohio, as I wait for them a full week later.
I'm actually envious of your mechanical doings as I'm in the midst of doing body/paint work (sucks!).
I totally agree that the performance numbers will be the BIG TELL.
I'm on the fence for what power mods I want to do to my second CDI. It'll be the wife's car in which case I cannot justify going bonkers (and my car I wish to leave stock [except simple tune] as it's a very rare specimen). Was thinking that with the upgraded IC that a tune could be dialed up a bit over stock IC with a tune.
Where are you mounting the new gauges? I plan to install just an EGT in a vent pod: don't want the wife staring at additional stuff; it'll only be for my eyes when I get a chance to drive the car.
My car's mechanical setup, until now, was the Lithuanian (ETK) turbo, and a big intercooler with the swirl vanes, resonators, EGR, and cat removed. The turbo is a smaller change that people might expect and the intercooler is rather important for controlling the EGTs. I'm betting you can get into the upper 200s range with a good tune on that. Best way to know is get a Dragy and do some 1/4 mile runs. Talk to Drew, get a tune, as it's money well-spent. If you haven't flashed your TCU, get that done, too, to get firmer shifts.
Fully expect to get at least a tune from Drew. I MAY have to do something with the IC pipes/hoses. Car really isn't on the street yet: needing to get some paint work done and some other stuff. I DID get a Dragy: haven't used it yet, not even on my daily CDI. Probably do the TCU in my car (I have a spare, so no downtime) but unsure on this other car (which will be my wife's- I went through the valve body on its trans and need to verify that it's all good, in the very limited testing I've done it seems good).
New gauges are going into the same pods I used for the GlowShift. I have the pods, the new gauges were purposely chosen to be in the 2 1/16" size, I already put the holes in my dash, and I think it's the perfect location for them.